Inside Tracks
Alpine Walking, by Sos P-T
One of the enormous benefits of ski-ing, and not ski-ing, in Klosters is the way it offers incredible walking opportunities. Increasingly our guests have been making the most of these, some who don’t ski, but often those who do but who want to enjoy the mountains on foot as well.
For myself, now a non skier, discovering the winter walks around Klosters has been like finding buried treasure in a familiar garden and I have become a huge enthusiast. Here are some of my favourites:
Klosters to Schifer
Starting by GTs (also known as Graströchni, Gaudi’s, the yellow tent, or fraiche becher central) follow the road towards Cavadürli. This winds gently up through the gloriously scented pine trees, and on a clear day you look over Dorf and right down the valley. This route (No 54) requires a certain level of fitness as it takes you right up to Schifer, some 350m higher than Klosters. Your efforts are well rewarded though. You can sit in the sun at Erezsäss eating their delicious rotisserie chicken and pretending you are a skier. The last bit up is quite steep, and perhaps go easy on the rosé as there is still the walk back to be navigated, but on a sunny day with lots of time it is a top option.
An alternative is to veer off right when you are half way to Schifer on to route No 55 which takes you down to Serneus via Sunniberg, from where you can take a bus back to Klosters, or indeed walk.
Alp Garfuin
If you are feeling energetic you can start at the Sports Centre and walk along the river (No 60) greeting the enormous number of busy dogs sniffing enthusiastically along the way. You continue across the bridge at Aeuja and go on up the valley, eventually hitting the road (No 64) beyond the car park. If you are short of time, jump on the 232 bus to Monbiel and start from there. The walk along to Alp Garfuin is truly spectacular and one that skiers don’t see. You can look across at the Gotschna and can see some of the slopes at the top of the Schwartzeealp. The views across the valley and up towards the Silvretta glacier are worth the walk on their own, and occasionally you can spot the little Fergenhütte nestling next to its tiny stream, up above the tree line. Alp Garfuin is a great shout for coffee or lunch and you can watch the horses eating their hay out of their little snack bar while they wait to pull their sleighs back to Klosters.
Madrisa to Zügenhüttli
If you have a ski pass or are happy to buy a walking pass, go up the Madrisa on a sunny day and as you come out of the lift station turn left (No 73). Shortly, you will see a sign to the right (No 72) to the Zügenhüttli. The views here are stunning and it is a brilliant way to join skiers for coffee up the mountain (take care when walking across the piste though). For lunch there is always the Madrisa- Hof (the non-skier is sometimes useful as a human table reservation) or there is the reliably delicious Madrisa Mia pizzeria by the valley station.
Saas to Serneus
Leap onto the 231 bus at the Klosters Bahnhof to Saas; the village is ravishing and worth a visit just to wander around a look at the buildings. Make your way towards the much lower train station (with its lovely café – perhaps a pit stop for another time) and then take the road (No 56) down towards the river. This route brings you over an adorable little bridge and up through the pine trees and fields on the other side of the river. The path can be a little tricky to find at some points, especially if there is snow on the ground, but it is well worth the effort. You end up in gorgeous Serneus, and if you walk on a day between Wednesday and Sunday you can pop in to see Renee and Al at Gasthaus Gotschna Serneus (certainly one of the most beautiful restaurants in the area) for coffee or, better still, lunch, before jumping on the 231 bus back to Klosters.